Denali Scheduling and Tactics
Just some spreadsheets and data and templates. Essentially, different ways of looking at the schedule, planning, and record-keeping up there.
A summary of the classic, guided, on-foot itinerary. Including stats and an attempt to give a glimpse into how laden each segment is; full starting load is “1”. And usually around 115-130 pounds per person. “Load” multipliers are very approximate.
5 guided itineraries. My trips over the years.
A summary of different descent/exit options. Note that one of the major scheduling “tensions” is the need to operate high on the mountain on a standard daytime schedule while, especially at the end of one’s expedition (and therefore later in the season), one must cross the lower glacier in the middle of the night. Also, that lowest section of the exit is the most crevasse prone- one really does not want to be dealing with a crevasse emergency while fully exhausted. That said, the “death march” schedule is what most choose.
Acclimatization tables.
Graph of acclimatization table.
Links and anecdotes in support of the acclimatization table and chart:
Aconcagua study: Climbers with HAPE. Pre-acclimatization not a statistical impact. graphed line is, essentially, just too fast for health. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39692528/
Hackett/CDC recommendation. "Classic" acclimatization. https://www.cdc.gov/yellow-book/hcp/environmental-hazards-risks/high-altitude-travel-and-altitude-illness.html
Jed HAPE 2018. Chile ,guiding. Not appreciably pre-acclimated (2x Teton 12k peaks in previous 10 days)
2022 MTA Porter ski expedition. "Fastest slow team on the mountain"; quick moving days, long rests, just enough acclimatization. Everyone felt good, altitude-wise, the whole time. We also had excellent weather. Zero pre acclimatization. (for Jed, 1x to 10k in previous 10 days. Otherwise, living at 6k. Client lives at 6k also)
2023 Denali HACE fatality. I was guiding roughly parallel to this group. We talked with them before he got sickest. "We skied some 14ers so we hope we're pre acclimated". American Alpine Club account.
2023 Zack McCarthy. Pre acclimated. https://fastestknowntime.com/fkt/jack-kuenzle-denali-ak-2023-06-05
Modern rapid Aconcagua, pre-acclimatized (a great deal more institutional knowledge with pre-acclimatization on Aconcagua than on Denali). A month in a hypoxico tent. Previous experience above 18k required. One example: https://alpenglowexpeditions.com/expedition/aconcagua-rapid-ascent#itinerary
Daily planning spreadsheet. Filled in on the phone, as we go. Different and emerging itineraries will get new columns. Each new weather forecast source and update will get a new column. Weather forecast color coding is subjective.
Daily reporting spreadsheet. Filled in on the phone, from the field.