Denali Prep. T-Minus 4.5 weeks
What am I thinking about at this point in Denali expedition preparation? Mainly, gear condition and compatibility. We’ve all likely sourced all the gear we need. But, is it all in suitable condition and will it all work together as we hope it will? First, some of your gear you might have acquired and used on a previous expedition and haven’t used it since. Is that stuff still in acceptable to good condition? Check it out.
Next, in terms of compatibility, I’ll go through the Mountain Trip equipment list (from here: https://mountaintrip.com/alaska/climb-denali/west-buttress/ ), in order, and point out some of the things I look for in usability and compatibility.
Socks. Make sure your sock system(s) work with your boots and allow room for swelling feet. Some like to have different thicknesses of socks for different expected temperatures. Some also like to mix and match liner socks with thicker “primary” socks. Try out all the expected combinations. Note, too, that foot warmth isn’t always directly correlated with sock thickness. In fact, if your boots fit close, thicker socks can impede circulation and make your feet colder than in thinner socks. Socks, in my experience, have far more impact on foot friction than they do on foot warmth. I personally use the same exact socks in all my boots and in all contexts. I have a half dozen pair of these thin, “compression” style socks, all in the same size, brand, and model. This simplified solution eliminates some guesswork and decision-making for me out there on the mountain. And it means that I have a great deal of confidence in my foot comfort and health. Also, on a big expedition like this, I bring a brand new, never-worn pair of these proven, reliable socks for the latter portion of the trip.
Overboots. If you have your own, make sure they fit with your boots and that you can adjust your crampons for use with and without the overboots.
Insoles. Same thoughts as socks; make sure you have room in your boots for swollen feet.
Mountaineering boots. If they are more than a year or two old, inspect for cracks in the rubber and the slightest suggestion of failure of the various adhesives that hold them together. Make sure you have solid laces and that any zippers run smooth.
Sealing snow from your boots. Either tall built-in gaiters (as on 8000m style boots), separate stand-alone gaiters, or your pant cuffs rigged with elastic stirrups. Make sure your solution will actually work in deep snow. Boots that get snow inside them might not dry for days or weeks on the expedition. This can be a deal breaker.
Big parka. Is it actually warm enough?
All your other primary clothing? Does it work together like you hope? Can you wear all the layers together as needed?
Head and face protection? Make sure your hoods, warm hat, sunglasses, goggles, and facemask can all work together for protection and still allow breathing without fogging.
Gloves and mittens? Think of your hand wear as a whole system. Does each piece complement the others? There is no need for duplicates of any type of gloves/mittens. If a glove or mitten is modular (two different pieces), can you get the parts back together after drying? If your heavyweight glove’s removable liner gets wet, can you wear one of your other gloves inside the big glove shells? This is a nice option to have.
Sleeping Bag? Is it actually warm enough?
Inflatable pad. Does it hold air? Is it insulating enough?
Trekking poles. Are the baskets intact and clicked securely on? Do the wrist straps extend long enough to go over your heavyweight gloves?
Climbing helmet. As mentioned above, make sure it works with your hats, glasses, goggles, face mask. Also, make a plan for getting your helmet to Alaska intact. After multiple helmets broken in my luggage, I carry my helmet in my carry on luggage during all travels.
Satellite communications. If you will use your own satellite device, make a plan now to get it registered, subscribed, and activated prior to the trip.