|Ian, found to be at fault for failure to pose.|
Generally, in the interest of preserving the thinly veiled perception of being an unique individual, I steer clear of the trendy mountain endeavors. You know the ones; those routes that seem to "suddenly" come into the collective consciousness and get done time after time, for a time. I like to hold myself falsely "above" such in vogue enterprises. However, sometimes the critical mass of mojo is irresistible. Carpooling with a buddy, he gets a text suggesting some obscure ice. Mere hours later, a call comes in: "What do you know about the ice in Convict Canyon?" Walk into the gym not much later, greeted with "have you heard of the big ice climb on Laurel?" Literally, while then working out, the proverbial straw broke this stubbornly self-defeating "free-thinkers" back. Ian texted "maybe we should climb that thing in Convict. Check out Ryan's facebook." Crackbook consulted, photo ogled, plan solidified, envy trumps pride.
|Looking down pitch one. Sunny ice with crappy rock. What the heck?|
|P2. Low-angle mixed to fat ice. P1 and P2 are separated by a couple hundred feet of mellow snow.|
While approaching and climbing the initial pitches, Ian regales with tales of frustration and early-morning guide logistics gone way wrong. My mellow buddy describes anger utterly incomprehensible to me. I respond with my own tales of barely contained rage in the face of recent misunderstandings. Wrath indeed.
|The best part of the route: Steep snow, to some moat-wallowing, to classic|
mixed terrain, to this too-steep-to-be-true snow pitch. Recent climbers turned around just below.
|Exotic snow arete, mid-route. Frozen stuff below, bare-booted loose-rock|
|Final tech pitch and some of the best work I've seen Ian do.|
Loose, steep, committed, calm as a cucumber.
|Final stroll on stunning ridge to inconsequential summit.|
|We did manage to find the "short cut" descent in the skier's "Mini Pinner" couloir. |
Pretty aesthetic finish to a sweet day of mediocre climbing.
|View of the zone from Mt. Morrison, December 2012. Had we known|
we'd climb over there so soon, better photos may have been secured.
Grade: WI4 5.7 R 1600 ft.
Ian McEleney and Jed Porter. February 13, 2013
Suggested names: "Complete Conviction", "7 Deadly Sins", "Too Silly to Report"?